A Timeless Cumbrian Retreat: Our Stay at Stag Cottage, The Rowley Estates
A Luxurious Dog-Friendly Getaway in the Heart of the Eden Valley
There are few places that manage to wrap you in warmth the moment you arrive. Stag Cottage, part of the Rowley Estates in Cumbria, is one of those rare finds. As soon as we pulled into the quiet village of Melmerby, framed by rose-gold sandstone walls and cradled by the Cumbrian fells, we knew we were in for something special.
This trip had been long in the making: a countryside escape with the Countrylook team-Katie, Ben, Jacob-and our two dogs, Stanley the ever-enthusiastic Jack Russell, and Katie’s gentle cocker spaniel, Maisie. a countryside escape with my colleague Katie and our two dogs, Stanley the ever-enthusiastic Jack Russell, and her gentle cocker spaniel, Maisie. We had high hopes for a few days of long walks, good food, and beautiful surroundings. What we found was so much more: a place steeped in heritage, infused with care, and lovingly restored by people who clearly understand the soul of the countryside.
The Rowley Estates: A Living Legacy
To understand what makes Stag Cottage so special, you have to look at the bigger picture: the Rowley Estates itself. Owned and run by Charles and Christine Rowley, the estates are a collection of historic properties dotted across the Eden Valley and Lake District. The Rowleys’ passion for preservation is extraordinary. Since taking over Melmerby Hall in 2002, they have lovingly restored and elevated a number of period buildings into luxury self-catering escapes, balancing authentic character with modern comfort.
What’s most remarkable is the way the Rowleys have intertwined their stewardship of these properties with a genuine commitment to the local community. They’ve worked to ensure that their success in hospitality hasn’t come at the cost of local housing, adding long-term rental homes to the village alongside their holiday properties. From converting old stables into conference spaces to creating stunning wedding venues and retreats, their vision is expansive yet thoughtful. It’s not just tourism, it’s revitalisation.
Arrival: A Warm Cumbrian Welcome
When we arrived at Stag Cottage, we were greeted with a welcome hamper that immediately set the tone. Beautiful local produce-fresh eggs, jams made from estate fruit, local cheese, artisan bread-was all tucked into a linen-lined basket beside a handwritten note and a bunch of fresh flowers. It was more than a gesture; it was a glimpse into the heart of the Rowley Estates.
The cottage itself is breathtaking from the first step inside. Built in the 17th century, this Grade II-listed sandstone building blends rustic charm with elegant comfort. The interiors are flawlessly curated: heavy oak beams, flagstone floors, antique furnishings, and soft, luxurious linens. Every detail has been considered, from the period-appropriate décor to the underfloor heating that kept us snug during cooler evenings. The attention to detail is astounding, from polished brass light switches to carefully sourced antiques, vintage artwork, and high-quality materials throughout. The beds were incredibly comfortable, draped in soft linens and thick duvets, and each of us remarked it was the best sleep we’d had in years, thanks to the deep quiet of the countryside.
Despite how exquisitely finished the interiors are, with their museum-quality furnishings and tastefully restored details, the cottage still feels welcoming. At first, it almost felt too beautiful for dogs, but Stanley quickly made himself at home, curling up in front of the fire like he belonged there all along.
Spacious, Stylish and Utterly Comfortable
Despite being called a cottage, this is a spacious home, more a country house than the word 'cottage' suggests. It housed the three of us and our two dogs effortlessly. Each of the three en-suite bedrooms offers something unique. The ground floor room is perfect for guests with mobility needs, while the master suite upstairs is something else entirely. It features a vast walk-in wardrobe and a bathroom that wouldn’t be out of place in a five-star hotel: marble finishes, a roll-top tub, and separate walk-in shower.
The living area is ideal for socialising: open-plan, with a fully equipped kitchen and a large dining table where we enjoyed a candle-lit roast dinner one evening. Though it doesn’t have a range cooker, the kitchen was equipped with absolutely everything we needed: every utensil, dish, and appliance you could ask for, whether you’re making breakfast or preparing a full roast. Cooking was a genuine pleasure.
The Perfect Evening In
That evening, we transformed the dining room into a glowing retreat with soft candlelight, gentle music, and wine. The setting couldn’t have been more perfect for an intimate, laughter-filled meal. We shared stories, toasted the views and the company, and savoured the moment. After dinner, we moved to the large, elegant living room where the beautiful wood-burning stove was already crackling. There, we curled up around the fire, the dogs nestled on their beds in front of the hearth, and reflected on the day’s adventures. The flicker of the flames, the comfort of the room, and the bond between us made it a night we won’t soon forget.
A Dog’s Dream Destination
For Stanley and Maisie, Stag Cottage was nothing short of paradise. Both front and rear gardens are enclosed, giving them plenty of freedom to sniff and explore while we relaxed around the fire pit or sipped morning coffee. But the real treat came with the walks.
We explored the Melmerby Hall grounds first: 25 acres of ancient trees, manicured lawns, and historical corners. Christine Rowley generously invited us into Melmerby Hall itself, and we spent a mesmerising few hours exploring its twelve rooms. The house is staggering, with panelled libraries, cavernous dining rooms, a ballroom, and sitting rooms filled with antiques, each one whispering stories from centuries past. The fact that this place is also available to rent makes it the dream venue for large family gatherings or retreats. Its quality, scale, and history are unlike anything we've encountered.
Later that evening, after lighting the fire pit in our garden, we took a moonlit stroll around the grounds. Seeing Melmerby Hall beautifully floodlit against the night sky, with shadows dancing across its timeless façade, added a magical end to the day.
Walks to Remember
Beyond the estate, we ventured into the fells. One highlight was a walk through Martindale Valley and up Martindale Fell. This manageable few-hour route took us through peaceful glens and grassy slopes, with views from the top that genuinely took our breath away: rolling ridges, distant lakes, and silence only broken by the occasional sheep or rustling wind. At the summit of Hallin Fell, beside the obelisk monument, we shared a quiet, reflective moment as a team. Looking out over Ullswater, it was one of those rare moments when everything feels perfectly aligned.
It’s one of the most dog-friendly regions we’ve explored, with clear trails, open spaces, and very few stiles to navigate. Stanley and Maisie were in their element, bounding through heather and grass without a care in the world.
Life in and Around Melmerby
Melmerby itself is a charming village with just enough to keep you grounded in comfort. The Old Village Bakery is a must-visit, a traditional café and shop offering hearty breakfasts, handmade cakes, and coffee strong enough to power a fell walk. The George and Dragon Inn, just a short stroll away, serves excellent local ale and unpretentious but delicious food, ideal after a long hike.
For history lovers, Melmerby Church and the local stone circles offer quiet insights into the area’s past. The village is also home to artisans and makers: potters, knitters, and woodworkers, some of whom offer classes or sell from small studios.
The Perfect Country Escape for Humans and Hounds Alike
If you’re looking for a truly luxurious yet homely countryside break for you and your dog, Stag Cottage is everything you want and then some. It’s the kind of place where the past is honoured, the present is perfected, and every detail serves to create an atmosphere of comfort, history, and quiet indulgence.
What makes it truly special is the Rowleys' deep understanding of heritage and hospitality. They have restored these buildings with immense care, ensuring original features are preserved while subtly integrating modern amenities that enhance the stay without diluting the charm. The décor is unmistakably country-warm, rural, and timeless. It’s not been over-modernised, and that’s exactly what makes it perfect. You can feel the history in the walls, yet everything feels beautifully comfortable and thoughtfully curated for guests.
We left feeling rejuvenated, inspired, and just a little reluctant to go. The Rowley Estates aren’t just about stunning properties, they’re about heritage, generosity, and soul. And Stag Cottage is the beating heart of it all.
We’ll be back.
